The Telegraph: Take lunch at NO.AU (0039 06 4565 2770; average £20 a head for two courses and glass of beer), a funky new bar restaurant in a pretty, hidden-away piazza.
The Telegraph: The Basilica of San Clemente is a triple-decker affair with a Mithraic temple at its lowest level and the deliciously ghoulish human bone decorations of the Capuchin Crypt on Via Veneto.
The Telegraph: Dine at one of Rome’s new breed of creative trattorias in Trastevere. La Gensola (0039 06 581 6312; osterialagensola.it) offers a mix of tasty Roman specialities and Sicilian-style seafood dishes.
The Telegraph: Less daunting but equally rewarding, Galleria Doria Pamphilj (0039 06 679 7323; open daily 9am-7pm; dopart.it) houses more Caravaggios as well as works by Breughels, Titian, Raphael and Velasquez.